Friday, April 22, 2011

Simplicity 2404

Simplicity 2404 - Amazing Fit Dress


Pattern Description: Misses and miss petite dress with pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit and ABCD cup sizing.


Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 to 24. I made view C - the awesome armholes!


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes and No. I altered it a lot, to match the jacket. The jacket is princess seamed and I wanted it to look similar. I ran out of fabric otherwise I would have probably omitted the waistline seam.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Rebellious again. I didnt read the instructions. :(


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Loves:
I love the BCD cup sizing, the fit was awesome.
Loved the cool armholes!


Dislike: Nothing!


Fabric Used:
Mystery fabric from Jomar, and china silk polyester for the bodice lining also from Jomar. Yes - bodice lining, remember I didnt follow the instructions?!


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I will start from the top and work down!
1. The shoulder slope - I flattened out the slope some.


2. Eliminated the center vertical seam - I wanted it to follow the lines of the jacket. Also I didn't think there was a need for the center vertical seam. So I removed the seam allowance and placed it on fold.


3. The skirt - I used this site: Vintage Pattern Drafting - Harriet Pepin and drafted a sort of six gore skirt.


4. The hem - I wore the dress and the jacket over it, then I shortened the dress so it wouldn't show under the jacket.


5. The eliminated facings - I cut the entire bodice from the lining fabric (complementary chevron) and lined the bodice. there was some houdini type sewing to understitch the seam allowances to the lining so it wouldnt show on the right side. Next time I will use facings - I've learnt my lesson!


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I might sew it again if I need a similar dress. I will recommend the bodice! I dont know about those pleats that are in the original skirt pattern. The pattern description says said the pleats wont distort - yeah, right! No, thank you!


Conclusion: I liked the bodice, I think the fit really was amazing with the top. The skirt I drafted i'm not too thrilled about. I might change the shape to an a-line type skirt without flaring the center gores. It might look better.

Simplicity 2860

Simplicity 2860 Amazing Fit Pants


Pattern Description: Misses and Miss Petite Pants Amazing Fit Collection.


Pattern Sizing: Size 8-22 with slim, average and curvy fit. 


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes and No. I made some adjustments based on the other reviews. 


Were the instructions easy to follow? After making the jacket in the picture, I was feeling rebellious and so I didn't look at the instructions. On the plus side, there are many other reviewers who probably read the instructions. :)


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Loves: The fit, the way the pants hang without clinging. 


Dislikes: Wish the pants were slightly narrower - they are really classic, and the current style is for slimmer fit pants. 


Fabric used? Mystery fabric from Jomar, I LOVE Jomar! The fabric section anyway!


Pattern alterations or design changes you made?
1. The waist-band. I read the other reviews and the reviewers made note of the rise being really high. To start with, I cut out the front and back, and didnt cut out any other pieces. I made up the pants, put in a lapped front zipper (I prefer zippers on the front, I find them itchy in the back of pants.) Then I tried them on, and they were really high, but the fit was really "Amazing". They didnt need a waistband, or I would have to cut the rise down to put a waistband in. I decided on a hidden facing. On the tissue, I closed up the darts and used the tissue to draw out a pants facing, and thats what I used, understitching the facing and tacked them down to the seam allowances.


2. I found these pants to be slightly short! I'm 5'3, and didnt use the petite sizing. I like to wear a high heel - 3 inches or so, and I could only turn up 1.25 inches on the pants. So If you like to wear high heels and are over 5'3, increasing the hem allowance might be something to consider. 


3. I sewed in the trouser crease. Love those :)


Would you sew it again? Recommend it?
Yes and Yes. 


Conclusion:
Lovely fit. The rise is high, and they may be a tad short if you're a heels gal! Great pair of formal pants :)

Thursday, April 21, 2011

McCalls M4601 Review

Jacket (And the uhm..Pants)


Pattern Description: Jacket is above mid-knee with princess seams, flap and front button closure. No waistband pants have front and back darts, back zipper and belt carriers. There is also a description for a vest and skirt


Pattern Sizing: 10-16. I made a 14. 


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes and No.
The jacket looked exactly like the picture, the pants looked like balloon pants, and I undid the seams immediately. Wish I had taken a picture of the horrible pants.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Dream instructions. This is a a princess seamed and lined jacket, so there were 8 main body pieces, and then another 8 for the lining, not to mention the collar, and the darts! To sew this jacket, one must be organzied :)



Collar
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Loves: 

1. Love the style of the jacket, love the lines. Love that all the seams/notches/collar, everything matched up. 


Dislikes:
1. Balloon pants. If you get a hold of this pattern, do not make the pants. I was really dissapointed with the pants, but I had extra fabric and the simplicity 2860 Amazing Fit pattern. So I cut up another set of pants. Those are the ones i'm wearing in the picture.



Lining
Fabric used? Mystery fabric from Jomar, with serious seperation anxiety issues. There are frayed fabric bits all over my house. It was 67 inches wide - I asked my mum, "what fabric comes in 67 inch width?" she said, "Drapery." I wont tell if you wont! :) The lining is china silk - polyester (I think) also from Jomar. The lining is a chevron pattern, in a complementary tone. The lady that cut it gave me an extra yard of the FF. So when I cut the jacket and pants, I was thrilled, I was going to get a dress too.. and maybe a bag.. and.. and..!! So when the first pair of pants didnt work out, I made a new pair of pants, and I was determined to make a dress too. I used some of the fabric from the botched pants, to make the simplicity dress 2404. Good thing I dont have any extra fabric, anything extra would probably be overkill!






Button, Flap and Darts
Pattern alterations or design changes you made?
1. Square shoulder dilemma: I have incredibly straight shoulders, most patterns have a depth of about 2.5 inches or so. I need a 0.75 inch slope ( I'm not even sure if i'm describing this right- on second thought maybe this is called shoulder depth). Since the jacket starts so close to the neck, I thought I would adjust the shoulders after I sewed up the body, and before I cut up the sleeves. When I tried on the jacket minus the sleeves, It looked fine, and I thought maybe I'm imagining my slope issues. I attached the sleeves, and the dimpling and wrinkling happened. The shoulders were too wide, and the slope was too steep. Very dissappointed. Then I had a brainwave. Shoulder pads! So I put those in, and voila! No more dimpling, no more wrinkling! 
Sleeve Lining


2. The Lining: I bagged it! No hand sewing sleeve lining to sleeve seams for me.


3. The buttons: Its supposed to be a 3 button suit, and I made it a 5 button suit.






Would you sew it again? Recommend it?
Yes And Yes. This was my first lined jacket, so I didnt break out the good stuff. Now that I know it fits so well, I will definitely make this up again, probably in a light wool - minus the shoulder pads. 


Conclusion:
Love my new interview suit! Make this jacket if you have this pattern - it fits wonderfully. Stay away from the pants. This is also my first contest, so I'm very excited!